Every Jakarta neighbourhood has a nasi uduk stall that opens before dawn and sells out by nine. The rice comes wrapped in banana leaf, warm and faintly sweet from coconut milk, with whatever sides the seller made that morning piled on top.

The Betawi people built the dish from Malay and Javanese cooking, and the name says what it is. Uduk means mixed, and the technique mixes rice with coconut milk instead of plain water.

Why the two-stage cooking

Coconut milk scorches. Cook rice in it from start to finish over direct heat and you get a burnt base and a raw centre. Absorbing the liquid first over low heat, then finishing in a steamer, lets the grains swell gently and stay separate.

The aromatics work the same way. Lemongrass, salam, galangal, and pandan release their oils into the coconut milk during the absorption stage, so the flavour sits inside the grain rather than on it.

Building the plate

Nasi uduk is a base, not a complete dish. The standard Jakarta spread includes tempe orek, telur balado, fried chicken or ayam goreng kremes, emping crackers, and sambal kacang. Start with two sides and add from there.